Tamron announced their Tap-In Console about two years ago, and the two main functions is to be able to update firmware without sending the lens into service, and the second is to finetune focus at three different focus distances and several focal lengths (for primes just one focal length). There are also some other features you may do in the Tap-In utility, such as behavior of the Vibration Control, adjust the focus limiter, sensitivity of the focus ring and so on.
Historically it has been relatively easy to predict what will come out of Nikons production plants, but this has changed to be increasingly more and more difficult in the later years. A couple of reasons for that are the economy crises and the flooding of a Thailand plant in 2011. So I guess this could be the reason that it wasn’t an immediate replacement for the D300s and the D700 and by this messing up the time line a bit. Lately they’ve also struggled with reorganization and saving money because of shrinking market for compacts and DSLR’s.
If you are new to photography or even a bit experienced, I admit that there is a jungle out there that can confuse the most determent ones. If you look a little bit closer you will notice that there is actually some kind of system in the mess, and there is a form of standardization of screws and threads, and quick release plates.
As we do most travel photos, we need to start with what photo gear to bring. That includes more than cameras and lenses, we also need to think about storage. We need to bring more memory cards than we need and external hard drives with more than enough space (make sure that they are all working!). For the camera with only one card slot, we never delete photos from the full memory card used with that camera, but for the camera with dual card slots (which the second card slot is set up to backup), I delete one of them after all photos are copied over to the external hard drive.
This one has been churning in my head for quite some time now, how can I putt this into words so it will last more than a year and not become outdated?
Well, first off I will strongly recommend a stationery computer and not a laptop. Nothing wrong with a laptop, but to be good enough (read, powerful enough), they need to be expensive, so I would rather recommend getting an “okay” priced and light weight laptop that you can bring with you on the travels and then get a powerful stationary workstation at home. Assembling a stationary computer is a lot easier than it might look like.
What is AF fine tune and why should you use it?
AF fine tune is an option in the menu of your camera (if it’s supported by your camera, it was introduced with the D3 and D300, but it’s not supported by the D3000 and D5000 series). What it does is that it compensate that your camera and lens combination may be off by a little bit making the auto focus to miss to lesser or greater degree. Every camera body and lens is produced within a certain tolerances and if the body and lens are off to the same side, it will make the focus to miss. You might also be so lucky that they are off to opposite sides and by this cancel out the differences, but that’s not any guaranty. If you happen to own several lenses, I’m convinced that most of them need some minor fine tune and maybe a couple need considerable fine tune. Adding the correct fine tune will then compensate for any misalignment between the body and lens, making the auto focus focus correctly.
So why is it important to calibrate your monitor while working with photos (and video) before publishing them online, selling them, giving them away or making prints?
The first argument against you will hear is that; no one else has a calibrated screen, so why should I care?